The fiber on the label decides how a garment was grown, how it feels and how long it will last. Here is how to choose.
Luxury used to mean a label. Increasingly it means a fiber. The most considered wardrobes today start with a simple question: what is this made of, and what did it cost the land and the people who made it?
The fibers worth knowing
- Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers and from non-genetically-modified seed. It feels identical to conventional cotton. Look for the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) mark, which also covers processing and working conditions.
- Hemp grows quickly, needs relatively little water and few pesticides, and gets softer with every wash. It drapes like linen with a little more structure.
- Linen, made from flax, is one of the oldest textiles in the world. It is breathable, strong and biodegradable when left undyed or naturally dyed.
- Tencel lyocell is made from wood pulp in a process its maker, Lenzing, says recovers more than 99 percent of the solvent used. It is silky, cool and excellent for dresses and shirts.
The most sustainable garment is the one you will still be wearing in ten years.
Fibers to think twice about
Polyester, acrylic and nylon are made from fossil fuels and shed microscopic fibers in the wash. Recycled polyester keeps bottles out of landfill, but it still sheds. If you buy synthetics, buy them for performance pieces you will wear hard and long, like a rain shell.
Labels that mean something
- GOTS: organic fiber plus environmental and social criteria through production.
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100: the finished product was tested for harmful substances. It does not mean organic.
- Fair Trade Certified: standards for the workers who made the garment.
How to shop
Start with the pieces you wear most: T-shirts, underwear, bedding and jeans. Feel the weight of the fabric, check the seams and choose natural dyes or undyed tones when you can. Wash cold, line dry and mend early. A well-chosen organic shirt will outlast three fast-fashion ones, and it will feel better every year you own it.
The Cat House Foundation ■ Modeling for a Cause. Photo: Pexels.